Deep Breaths

My first week in Belgrade definitely passed by faster than any week on this trip. It feels like only yesterday I was waking up to my first Serbian language class and a day full of lectures. Now I have completed my first data collection paper, am in the process of completing my first mini-Independent Study Project, and mastering Cyrillic. I'm about halfway there... I know just enough of the alphabet that I can semi-guess what the street signs say. I will admit, I was extremely worried about being in a big city- from being mugged in Zagreb to knowing I'm not a big city girl, I was convinced I would be miserable while here. I have, however, been proven wrong. Belgrade is alive in so many aspects of the word. The people are helpful (especially when I'm trying to order food or call a cab), the streets are packed full of history, and the city truly never sleeps. The one thing I would like to change, however, is the weather. I can probably count the number of sunny days, TRULY sunny days, on one hand.

Monday was pretty much spent getting oriented with how to get to class, which for me, is about a 25-30 minute commute. I take the 46 bus for 8 stops to a massive junction of streets and bus stops, and then walk for about 10 minutes to the Fakultet (college). I am currently taking my classes in the buildings of a private university in Belgrade that is called the Faculty of Media and Communication. Right now I am continuing my post conflict transformation seminar with the section called "Serbia after Milosevic". To be honest, I really didn't know how Serbia was doing after Milosevic before I arrived here. I was definitely unprepared for the amount of nationalism that still wreaks havoc on Belgrade streets every so often. For example, in September of 2009, the LGBT community in Belgrade attempted to have a Gay Parade, something they had not been able to do since the 2001 Gay Parade that ended in disaster as ultra-nationalist groups attacked the paraders. A few days before the parade was supposed to happen, the Serbian government called it off, stating that they would be unable to protect the paraders from the death threats of ultra nationalist groups around the city. Pretty terrifying, I must admit. We have watched multiple films that visually describe what Belgrade has looked like on multiple occasions when nationalist groups take to the streets. In 2008, after Kosovo declared independence, these groups set the American Embassy on fire. Now I can understand why some people look at me in disgust when I tell them I'm American. Last week, I had two 24 year old men accost me for being American on the bus, stating that I (I think they meant America) bombed their city in 2001 (it was 1999, by the way... just a little tidbit). It took a lot of effort for me to hold my composure while informing them that the group that bombed Belgrade was actually NATO, it occurred in 1999, and that I cannot be blamed for a bombing that occurred when I was merely 10 years old. To them, however, it makes perfect sense to blame me. They are saying these things in protection of Serbia, their home, and I am an outsider. I was lucky to get out of that situation with just a finger in my face and looks of anger. I have on multiple times after that situation considered calling myself a Canadian.

Tuesday was wonderful- we had another drop off for our Field Study Seminar (similar to the one in Zagreb). Claire, Nicole, and I were asked to find different statues and monuments, along with a church and the Parliament buildings on our journey back to class. We had a splendid time, taking pictures to document our trip along the way. We had coffee at a beautiful hotel cafe that, luckily for me, had a non-smoking section! We finished off the day with some shopping and lunch before heading back to class.

Wednesday was TERRIBLE. During the night, snow pummeled the city and the temperature remained at a sub-arctic -5 degrees celsius pretty much all day. A commute that normally takes me 25 minutes took me 1 hour 45 minutes, causing me to miss a meeting and make it to class with 5 minutes to spare. My first bus that came to the station was so packed that it was tipping over, my second bus broke as all the passengers piled in, and my third bus was able to find about 45 minutes of traffic. I probably could have walked there faster. I was pretty miserable and couldn't breathe so right after class, I made my way to the closest bus station and found my way home so I could curl up in bed and read about Bosnia (my go to subject when I'm down in the dumps). Branka made me a massive bowl of soup and worried about me all night. I think I give her a heart attack sometimes with my clothing choices. For example, I left my snow boots in Zagreb. She almost lost it. I definitely trudged around in my jogging sneakers. :-/

Thursday and Friday were pretty free because the group did not end up going to Novi Sad due to the weather. With just one lecture on Thursday and one language class on Friday, my friends and I took that opportunity to have coffee A LOT and have lunch out on Friday. After classes on Friday, my friends and I went shopping, had an amazing dinner, and sat and talked around wine and spirits for about 3 hours. What a night... and Saturday was just as great :-)

Well... this is my last post before Bosnia... AMAZING. I am so overwhelmed with anticipation and joy that I finally get to return to the root of my love of peacebuilding. Bosnia took my breath away last summer, and I have no doubt in my mind that it will do so again. I'm smiling now just thinking about the wonderful moments I had and the amazing people I met; needless to say, I am counting down the days until we leave for Sanski Most- SIX DAYS :-)

Deep breaths. That's all I need for now to get me through.